Your close - Hibernate includes a number of reserved word in HQL for dealing with lists. For example; You may test the size of a collection with the special property size, or the special size() function.
from Cat cat where cat.kittens.size > 0
from Cat cat where size(cat.kittens) > 0
Then its just prepending 'select count(*) '. Check out the manual for further information
http://www.hibernate.org/hib_docs/v3/reference/en/html/queryhql.html and maybe its a good idea to install the hibernate tools and try the query tool out.